During our stay in Varkala, we got a chance to experience a Kathakali performance, which is a 500-year old Keralean temple dance-drama with the special attribute that no words are spoken during the performance.
We arrived a couple of hours before the performance took place, to watch the complicated proces of applying the make-up which can take as long as two hours, and to see how they dress in the complex and detailed costumes which included a grand supply of empty ricebags to make the skirt puff in the right way. The make-up is made of natural ingredients, including the odd white stiff beard made of ricepaste. (Click on the photo to see it more detailed):
Depending on the colours of the make-up, the character's identity is revealed: A green make-up portrays good and noble male characters and red in a green painted face is used for anti-heroes. Predominantly red is used for evil characters such as demons whereas yellow is used for women and ascetics. It is because the performance is without the use of words, that the colours of the make-up, as well as the facial expressions and well-defined gestures and body movements are following strict rules so they together form the language revealing the story to the audience, often supplemented by only drums and a singer.
Kathakali is usually performed with non or very few props on the stage, except for the Kalivilakku lamp fuelled on coconut oil, - the most widely used oil in Keralean cuisine.
When the play started, we were seated front row and thus were able to observe every detail of the facial expressions and every nuance of the characters hand gestures ('mudras'). It was quite impressive how much the actors could express with what appeared to be simple changes in their mimics, but which must have taken years of practice to perform in the right way.

The performance was the typical story about a Hindu deity fighting an evil demon. It became highly dramatic when the deity started to cut of limbs of the demon because he didn't wanted to marry her. This shows the demon whom the deity didn't want to marry.:

The performance was the typical story about a Hindu deity fighting an evil demon. It became highly dramatic when the deity started to cut of limbs of the demon because he didn't wanted to marry her. This shows the demon whom the deity didn't want to marry.:
Diabetes Talk
Before the play we had a long talk with the administrator of the katakhali-event who turned out to be a diabetic. The administrator explained how he tried to control his diabetes. Every morning he meets up with neighbours and friends in his village fighting health problems themselves, and together they go for an hour long walk. Since the diagnosis he had revised his diet so that it now was low in fat, rich in vegetables and with limited intake of sugar. Left for him was to reduce his intake of rice, which has shown to be one of the problems in Kerala.
Later that day, we fell into conversation with the owner of a small shop in Varkala, who was truly troubled about his wife's state of health. A few days earlier, she had had yet another high blood glucose reading, which indicated that she is not able to control her diabetes and thus in great risk of developing severe complications. The last diabetologist the wife had visited had charged an outragely large amount of money for the consultation. The cost of this consultation alone, seemed to be so much that it would be impossible to continue seeing a doctor. We shared our stories about the diabetes care centre we visited in Kulanada and it inspired him to look for an alternative place where they would be able continue his wife's treatment at a lower cost.


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